Alpine Logistics

Text and photos by Robert Chillcott

On Saturday 23rd June 2007 a small group of eight people – two men and six women – arrived late at Turin Airport on a Ryanair flight from London Stansted. The group had been brought together by either teaching or trying to learn the Italian language and by a liking for Walking. We were embarking on an Alpine Logistics walking holiday and we were transported from Turin to Courmayeur in less than two hours in a very comfortable minibus. The accommodation in Courmayeur was at the Agriturismo Le Reve which affords a splendid view of the mountains, in particular Monte Bianco.

All members of the party had some experience of Walking but were not necessarily terribly fit and I was the youngest at 56. There was considerable speculation as to how we would manage with the hazards of altitude, rain, carrying a rucksack, blisters and hard physical demands on our bodies.

In addition to booking the (half board) accommodation and providing the minibus for the week, Alpine Logistics provided packed lunches and a mountain guide, Giovanna. Giovanna drove the minibus, and then acted as a sheep dog, making sure we stayed clear of any danger while staying on route and on target to achieve our destination.

On Sunday we set off early to the nearby Val Veny. The walk started on a small road. It was uphill and hot. This was tough. I wasn’t used to ascending like this. Before too long Giovanna offered us the opportunity of a detour from our main route. We didn’t take much persuading and soon we were clambering over rocks (much more fun!) to get to Lago del Miage. There we saw our first Marmots and the lake is a wow: water surrounded by large scree-type rocks. It is part of the Miage glacier and rocks were constantly tumbling into the lake, making large splashes.

Back on the main route we could see the lunch destination – refuge Elisabetta at 2197m – and the reasonably flat track seemed easy going. However the sting in the tail became apparent as we neared Elisabetta: we needed to climb many steep metres to get there.

With huge effort and much perspiration, spurred on by the thought of a hot lunch, I made it. I quickly ordered Polenta with stewed meat and a beer which went down very well. However most of the party ate their packed lunches and just ordered a drink or two.

After lunch the group divided into two with some enthusiastic to put in a few more miles up the valley with Giovanna. However I stayed, first amongst the amazing mountain flowers and then I wandered over to a large patch of snow to take a few pictures. The descent was going to be a piece of cake: back the way we came, such an easy route. However not only did it seem twice as long as the ascent but the leg muscles didn’t like it one bit.

Eventually we all made it OK and the minibus stopped at a Supermercato on the way back to buy wine which we consumed in some spirit of achievement and contentment before dinner.

The weather forecast being decidedly iffy and with a lot of rain on Sunday night, the planned itinerary was changed to give Monday as the ‘rest’ day. Aosta was the recommended destination and we went by (cheap) public bus. Aosta has many major tourist sights but fortunately we encountered few other tourists. The main monuments of the city include:

• The Arch of Augustus, erected in 35 BC to celebrate the victory of the Roman troops led by consul Varro Murene over the local Salassi.
• The Porta Praetoria (1st century AD), once the eastern gate to the city, which has preserved its original forms apart from the marble covering. It is formed by two series of arches enclosing a small square.
• The Roman theatre, of which the southern façade remains today, 22 m tall. The structure, dating from the late reign of Augustus occupied an area of 81 x 64 m: it could contain up to 4,000 spectators. Nearby was the amphitheatre, built under Claudius.
• The Cathedral of Aosta, built in the 4th century and replaced in the 11th century by a new edifice dedicate to the Madonna. It is annexed to the Roman Forum.
• The Romanesque-Gothic Sant’Orso (Saint-Ours). Its most evocative feature is the ancient cloister, which can be entered through a hall on the left of the façade. It is dedicated to Ursus of Aosta.

It was hot and humid and we did well to find a restaurant with a cool garden for a relaxed lunch. I then found a shoe shop and bought a pair of Italian shoes made of thin leather. We then returned to Courmayeur by bus.

The weather was still cloudy over the northern Alps so on Tuesday we set off for our furthest and furthest south destination – the Mont Avic National Park. On arrival at the small hamlet where the minibus parked, Giovanna handed out walking poles to those that didn’t have their own. This was a little ominous and I had never used poles before.

Right at the start there was a signpost to our destination – the refuge Barbustel – but it did say that it would take 3 hours 50 minutes. This was daunting and even more daunting was the fact that the path was, in fact, very steeply uphill almost all the way.

The path was a lovely route and the scenery kept changing: Sometimes through the trees, sometimes by a lake and often just up rocks, although the path was clearly marked. Giovanna warned that we would have to turn round at 2.30 wherever we were. However we rose to the challenge and arrived at 1.50.

I ordered several fruit juices from the bar and bought some chocolate. Just near the refuge was quite a large lake surrounded by a mixture of rocks and pines.

We descended by a different route which provided yet further variety of path: To begin with it was quite exciting with sheer drops a foot off the path, then lower down it became like a meadow with lots of flowers and then a wetland area. My knees hurt at the end of the walk (strangely the only day that they did). It was a long and tough walk but again it was thrilling to have done it.

On Wednesday the weather forecast was that Alpine areas might be cloudy so we went to the Gran Paradiso National Park, the first area of Italy to be so designated.

It was a little cold at first but soon warmed up. The first stage (up of course) was through a pine forest. It then became much more open and we passed what was once – a hundred years or so ago – the King of Italy’s hunting lodge. The final stage was on exposed mountain and it was in fact very cold. I had not taken enough clothes in my rucksack but Diane had brought extra, thankfully.

This was the only walk without a refuge stop for lunch. Where we ended the outward part of the walk it was snowing a little and there was a small lake. Anxious to get warm, I ran down where I could which was probably not too wise. The lunch spot was by a deserted farm building where there was shelter from the wind and it was sunny too.

We descended the way we had come and stopped when we saw a small deer and then more marmots. Some of the women took their time coming down as they took photos of the mountain flowers. My brother, Richard, took it into his head not only to go first but to take a very unlikely path which took him to the wrong village.

Giovanna was concerned but I can’t say that I was. Richard just had to walk (run?) back along the road to the minibus. I was hobbling for the last hour or so (because of the running?) as my right leg hurt, although only when descending steeply. Lacking Richard gave us the opportunity to have a quick coffee (and an ice-cream in my case) while we waited for him. So we had survived another day!

On Thursday the weather had cleared and we set off past the lovely Alpine village of La Thuile to La Joux, not far from the French border. Although the signpost at the start suggested that the refuge was less than 3 hours away, this was to prove the toughest walk of the week.

The walk was idyllic to begin with as we kept close to a mountain river as we ascended and saw three great waterfalls in amongst the woods. The path then became rocky and steep. After a while (a long while!) we reached a flatter area where there was a lake set amongst a lot of grass-like greenery. A lone fisherman was trying his luck.

The final part of the ascent to the refuge Deffeyes (2494m) was steep and long but the view we got on arrival was worth it as we looked over the Ruitor glacier. I then very much enjoyed hot pasta bolognaise with a beer. Again, the rest of the group just tucked into the packed lunch.

The feature of the descent was being met by several Billy goats gruff, complete with horns, who seemed neither friendly nor hostile. Strangely they all seemed to be different breeds and colors. I was so pleased to be down that I galloped the last part using my walking poles for maximum acceleration. We had ascended nearly 1000 metres and made it back down!

 The weather was great again on Friday and we drove to near the end of Val Ferret. After a little road walking we set off on a path as steep as any we had seen all week. At one point the path crossed some snow but the regular route had collapsed so we had an exciting crossing where sure footedness was mandatory and the poles were useful, as was Giovanna’s hand!

The refuge Elena is opposite the Pré du Bar glacier and we reached this refuge mid morning. Our party divided into two and I stayed behind for a cappuccino with Ann. We then thought we would go for a little saunter and went for a short walk on an EE (narrow) path up to a patch of snow which crossed the path. The refuge lunch was an excellent regional cabbage and bread soup. After this we thought that the main party would not be back for quite a while so we set off slowly towards the glacier.

There was no path but it was actually the easiest walking of the week as the gradient was modest. Veronica and I made it to a point beyond which I thought it best not to go, as the glacier cliff loomed. However we stood next to the lower part of the glacier which was full of snow, ice, rocks and boulders. Next thing we knew, Giovanna was near, calling us back – she was concerned to keep us out of any danger. Veronica and I were thrilled to have visited the glacier and we made the others jealous!

On Saturday the flight home was late and the day started with a leisurely trip to Courmayeur which included some gelato tasting. Then Roni, Carole and I ascended in the cable cars to Punta Helbronner (3470m) on Monte Bianco where it was zero degrees centigrade in the shade but very hot in the sun. Beautiful views in every direction called for lots of photos.

 Descending to La Palud we met the others in a very good restaurant and enjoyed a good lunch. In the afternoon the minibus took us to Fenis castle which is in an excellent state of repair and attractive visually. The castle guide spoke very fast and tested understanding to the limit. After a final gelato it was time to return to Turin and home.

Of course we saw fantastic scenery in the week and it was fascinating to see all the flowers and a bonus to see some mountain animals. For me though the top feeling was that of amazement that I had actually walked virtually the entire planned itinerary despite the lack of training beforehand. My appetite has certainly been wetted for more and I even asked what the next level up would be (Vie Ferrate I believe)!