Walking in Italy - Sardinia
Based on the east coast at Cala Gonone, here is some of the islands most beautiful coast line along with the wild highlands of Supramonte. There is something for everyone; climbing, walking, caving, archeological remains, relaxing on the beach, biking, sailing, canyoning, kayaking…not to mention the renowned local cheese and wine!
May is spring time here, which means the whole landscape turns green, yellow and pink with flowers and the weather is still just about cool enough to allow activity, although the shade offers relief in the middle of the day.
The coast is characterised by limestone cliffs with large caverns; some of which are a haven for climbers and others of which a haven for wildlife; inbetween these are beautiful sand or pebble coves, most of which can only be reached on foot or by boat.
Cala Luna is one of the better known examples. Overland it can either be reached by a 1hr30min walk from Cala Fuili near Cala Gonone, or more challanging but more dramatic, from Codula di Luna…the 10km-long valley which leads to the sea from the centre of the Sardinian highlands.
A brown road sign saying “Telettotes 13km” marks the turning point off the main road between Olbia and Cagliari, although if you see more than 3 cars in a day it must be Saturday. A long, windy single-track road leads first through an undulating plain where pigs, horses, cows, goats, sheep and donkeys graize peacefully together…no sign of old Mc Donald’s farm though, this place is remote.
Carrying on ever down now through mediterranean shrub and then forest you finally reach the end of the road in a place which seems like something out of the Lost World. Dense forest, a vigerous boulder-strewn river and 300m-high limestone walls which loom high above. Occasionally a pig or a cow emerges from the bushes and the sound of birds and bees fills the air.
The path isn’t sign posted but a new wooden bridge marks the start of the walk along the river. The valley is narrow and seems almost gorge-like thanks to the limestone cliffs…a climbers paradise still waiting to be discovered. Initially under the shade of uncontaminated forests the path eventually disappears after about an hour’s walking and so does the water in the river, probably swallowed up by the many kilometeres of underground limestone passages and caverns which have been formed here as a result of millions of years of erosion.
The path is now the dry river bed: fine white sand covered by large, rounded boulders of granite, the rock which forms the island’s base. Limestone was deposited on top afterwards and then eroded to re-reveal it. This makes for more difficult and time consuming walking, or boulder hopping. Bend after bend in the huge river reveals kilometer after kilometer of this wild valley but curiosity draws you onwards.
Three hours after setting off the boulders disappear and the valley sides become lower…you can here the sound of the sea…Cala Luna opens up infront of you. A white sandy beach with turqoise waters, no roads and no houses…paradise well earnt!
This entry was posted on Tuesday, May 6th, 2008 at 16:05 and is filed under Articles. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed . You can post a comment, or to trackback from your site.
Leave a message or search for someone to come climbing/skiing/walking with on your holiday
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit.
Mauris ut odio a wisi facilisis ultricies. Quisque neque. Donec elit odio, laoreet non, tristique eu, iaculis in, elit.
Fusce molestie ante ullamcorper arcu.
