Alpine Logistics

With over 200 routes and a several kilometers of urgonian limestone, Ablon is one of Haute Savoie’s best-known crags; I’d seen a picture of it several years ago and have wanted to go ever since. Spring or Autumn are the best times to go, so, as the week-end forecast promised well, we decided to make a trip.

After a smooth three hour drive and a brief stop-off to buy the guide book we were on the Plateau des Glieres; well-known for its role in the French Resistance during World War 2 and the departure point for climbers heading to Ablon. 

The Plateau is at 1400m and presents a remote, little inhabited landscape of forests, gorges, crags and peaks suspended above the lowlands between Annecy and Geneva. After some searching we found the dirt track forest road which leads to the crag in 40 minutes on foot; the use of a car is strictly forbidden. Unknown to us camping is also forbidden on the Plateau and the Police Municipal, parked at the Ablon trailhead, had anticipated anyone intending to ignore this rule.

Driving on we approached one of the few buildings in the area. A crooked sign hung outside adevrtising: ‘Gite - Ouvert’. A light shone from inside; a woman was reading with a huge black cat curled up at her feet. It was open, there was space and fifteen euros a night seemed very reasonable.

The approach to the crag is a very pleasant walk through mixed deciduous and pine forest, with a vigerous community of mosses and lichens growing on the floor and hanging from the branches. It reminded me of forests I’d seen in some parts of Scotland and Ireland.

The autumn colours flickering in the breeze and the sun were magical; what a pleasant way to start the day.

The crag is east facing so it was already basking in sunshine when we emerged from the trees onto the green pastures of Ablon: a once glacial hanging valley. The rock is grey, compact and in many places incredibly sharp! There are a lot of sectors to choose from, offering vertical to overhanging rock, 4a to 8b. We found some of the climbs difficult to read, the rock being a sea of painful crimps, definatley a good work out for the forearms though.

The day disappered quickly, as did the skin on our fingers. A very peacefil and beautiful place which is certainly worth going to but, we deduced, only enjoyable in short doses!