Alpine Logistics

With over 200 routes and a several kilometers of urgonian limestone, Ablon is one of Haute Savoie’s best-known crags; I’d seen a picture of it several years ago and have wanted to go ever since. Spring or Autumn are the best times to go, so, as the week-end forecast promised well, we decided to make a trip.

After a smooth three hour drive and a brief stop-off to buy the guide book we were on the Plateau des Glieres; well-known for its role in the French Resistance during World War 2 and the departure point for climbers heading to Ablon. 

The Plateau is at 1400m and presents a remote, little inhabited landscape of forests, gorges, crags and peaks suspended above the lowlands between Annecy and Geneva. After some searching we found the dirt track forest road which leads to the crag in 40 minutes on foot; the use of a car is strictly forbidden. Unknown to us camping is also forbidden on the Plateau and the Police Municipal, parked at the Ablon trailhead, had anticipated anyone intending to ignore this rule.

Driving on we approached one of the few buildings in the area. A crooked sign hung outside adevrtising: ‘Gite - Ouvert’. A light shone from inside; a woman was reading with a huge black cat curled up at her feet. It was open, there was space and fifteen euros a night seemed very reasonable.

The approach to the crag is a very pleasant walk through mixed deciduous and pine forest, with a vigerous community of mosses and lichens growing on the floor and hanging from the branches. It reminded me of forests I’d seen in some parts of Scotland and Ireland.

The autumn colours flickering in the breeze and the sun were magical; what a pleasant way to start the day.

The crag is east facing so it was already basking in sunshine when we emerged from the trees onto the green pastures of Ablon: a once glacial hanging valley. The rock is grey, compact and in many places incredibly sharp! There are a lot of sectors to choose from, offering vertical to overhanging rock, 4a to 8b. We found some of the climbs difficult to read, the rock being a sea of painful crimps, definatley a good work out for the forearms though.

The day disappered quickly, as did the skin on our fingers. A very peacefil and beautiful place which is certainly worth going to but, we deduced, only enjoyable in short doses!

 

 

After an unstable summer in the Alps this year, late season conditions have been perfect across the entire alpine arc. Local guide Luca Machetto is making the most of it and has spent several weeks with clients in the Monte Banco Massif.

A group from the UK came to attempt the summit of Monte Bianco. They spent the first few days acclimatising by ascending, amongst other things, to Col du Passon (3028m) and Tete Blanche (3429m). 

The weather over Monte Bianco deteriorated towards the end of the week but they managed to end the trip on a high by moving to the near-by Gran Paradiso massif, which was unaffected by the low pressure system. They summited Gran Paradiso itself via the Normal Route (4061m).

Finally, Luca completed the famous Tour du Mont Blanc with a group from Israel.  Departing from Courmayeur they crossed through into Switwerland via Col Ferret, then France and Chamonix before returning to Courmayeur, all in 7 days of blissful sunshine. This was done hut to hut with a bag transfer service, so no heavy packs!

 

A relaxing walk on a beautiful sunny day in Piemonte. The air was warm and full of the smell of pine. We set off from San Giacomo initially through trees but the vegetation soon thinned out and gave way to hazy views across the plains below and into Valle d’Aosta.

After some time we came across an alpeggio (summer pasture for cows and other farm animals) where ducks, chickens, rabbits and a donkey were busy feeding on the grass and a child was washing under a fountain. Thirsty we drank and filled our water bottles.

Grassy slopes then gave way to a steep rocky section beneath Monbarone lake, just a couple of hundrend metres below the summit, which was now in view. After a col we passed Rifugio Monbarone and soon gained the top, were a number of others were already admiring the view.

Across the valley is the massive white bulk of Monte Rosa. Further north and west we could see several other of the Alp’s giants, including the unmistakable outline of Monte Bianco.

It was 1 o’clock and time for lunch. We got talking to a man about travels and troubles in Tibet and Nepal…he’d just spent the summer months there and enthusiastically recounted the highlights of his trip to us. Despite a chilly breeze the sun was strong and I could quite happily have spent the afternoon enjoying the view from our high point.

Eventually we made our way down. Almost at the car we came across a herd of bell-laiden cows being led to lower pastures. The landscape even here in the mountains, were spring sometimes seems to be eternal, has turned a deeper shade of green; it’s late summer but luckily the days are still long and hot!

Some time ago a climbing friend of mine mentioned a new ‘secret’ crag in Val D’Ossola with fantastic cracks on perfect granite, all bolted.

Almost a year later the desire to climb on something new reminded me of this ‘secret’ place. After a few phone calls we managed to uncover the location and approach to and were told that the grades are written at the bottom of each climb. The exposure is perfect for this time of year; full shade.

After a two hour drive and a short walk-in we arrived. Excited we spent some time checking out the sectors before gearing up. We climbed a series of excellent routes in the second sector; finger-cracks, hand-cracks, off-widths and chimneys reawakened memories of Yosemite from last summer, though obviously on a smaller scale!

Finally we returned to the first sector where we’d seen 2 good-looking lines: a slightly overhung 6c hand jamming crack called “Sangue e Mangnesite� (Blood and Chalk) and a very physical 7a following a thin overhanging crack.

The only negative points to make are that the rock is dirty (lots of spiders webs in the cracks) due to the limited number of visits and secondly that most of the climbs could have been unbolted. There are very few trad crags here in Italy and it wouldn’t be such a bad thing to have a few more where the rock permits it. Anyone who doesn’t agree should check out what the US and UK have to offer…you have to try it to believe it!