Archive for August 2007
Climbing in the UK - Southern Sandstone
Saturday, August 18th, 2007
Julia has often spoken to me about the sandstone outcrops of south east England at which she first started climbing, in particular Harrisons, Bowles and High Rocks.
Now that I had the chance to visit the area we made a trip (or three) to check out Southern Sandstone. The grades and the style of climbing are very different to what I’m used to in the rest of Europe, so my experience was doubtless made easier by having a local with me.
First we went to Harrisons: a long sandstone outcrop up to 10m high where my first surprise was the descent on foot! You climb on a top-rope, untie once on top of the rocks then walk down. This is apparently to prevent excess damage by lowering off the fragile rock.
I got to grips with chimneys, cracks and some fantastic smears but there are also crimps and holds which make for very varied climbing in which feet count much more than hands. A few slips and slides were inevitable to start with but I soon began to understand how it works.
The next climbing day we went to Bowles Rocks, set amongst perfect English country side. An outdoor centre has been established around the rocks with dormitories, a ski slope, swimming pool and more. It seems a bit strange at first but the place is nice and the climbing’s good.
Now that I had acquired a ‘feeling’ for sandstone we had great fun. It’s like doing huge boulder problems; big flat holds, smears, mantle shelves…half a day is enough to make all your muscles beg for mercy.
Thirsty for more and were inspired by several good-looking lines we went back to Bowles a second day running. We and managed to climb all but one despite multiple attempts…a good excuse to return soon!