Alpine Logistics

This area is famous throughout Europe for Pizzo Badile and Melloblocco but it has a great deal more to offer besides, as we discovered on short trip last week.

In the early afternoon we arrived at San Martino, a small alpine village north of Lecco. We were haeding for Val di Zocca; one of 16 valleys covered by the new, 369-page guide book to the area ‘Solo Granito’ (Only Granite). With a four hour approach ahead of us we had opted to sleep at Rifugio Allievi Bonacossa instead of hauling up tent, sleeping bags and a stove in addition to our climbing gear.

At three o’clock we set off under the blazing heat of the sun across Val di Mello. It really is as idyllic as people say…a wide, clear blue river winds its way across flat grassy fields dotted here and there by huge boulders. Hanging above both sides of the valley are 600m-high slabs of granite, although it’s too hot to climb this low down in mid-summer.

I gazed longingly at the people playing in the river but our path soon disappeared north-wards up a steep-looking side valley. Infinite zigzags climbed up through a pretty pine forest, occasionally crossing steep rivers which had carved their way into the hard granite bedrock and were tumbling impatiently to the valley floor.

After some time we emerged above the tree line and into cooler, high mountain air. Val di Zocca began to open out ahead of us until finally we reached the base of the amphitheatre which forms the head of the valley. What a sight! A multitude of huge granite spires towered above us and the rock looked perfect on every one…enough for months and months of climbing! It reminded me a lot of the Wind River Range in Wyoming. We couldn’t resist getting out our map and guide book to identify some of the peaks and decide which we’d like to climb first.

Some lucky horses were grazing in the beautiful meadow in which we stood, where there must once have been a lake. 100m further up we could see the refuge still basking in the evening sun, beckoning us on. On our arrival we were greeted by a couple of walkers who were half-way through the five-day long-distance walk ‘Sentiero Roma’ which crosses the area. We shared a table at dinner and they told us all about their adventures.

Our objective for the following day was a classic 450m route ‘Lady-D’ on the south face of Punta Rasica (3305m). After an short 45 minute approach from the hut we were at its base looking up. Eleven pitches of slab climbing awaited us…a style that neither of us is very used to but which turned out to be very rewarding. On occasions I wondered what on earth was keeping me up! No holds for hands or feet on near vertical rock…grip must have some limits I thought.

Clouds came and went but the temperature was almost ideal throughout the day. Ten abseils to descend the route and we were back at the hut in time for dinner.

The next day we had the prospect of the 1500m descent back to the valley floor from the hut so we opted for a shorter route called ‘Gelato al Bonacossa’ on an east facing buttress nearby. By midday we were back at the base enjoying our sandwiches and taking in the spectacular view. I tried to imagine how the first climbers to reach the valley must have felt. From the valley floor you would never imagine finding such a vast Mecca of granite hidden away up here…and this is just a small part of what there is.

The valley floor seemed a long way down but eventually we made it to the long-awaited dip in the river running across Val di Mello and then an ice cream in San Martino. “This is the life!� I thought.

We spent last week-end crossing Switzerland and Germany to go to the Outdoor Trade Fair in Freidrichshafen. On the way home we passed through some beautiful Swiss alpine areas so we decided to make the most of it and go for an explore.

  We left the car at Simplon Pass and without a map ventured onto one of the many sign-posted footpaths that lead to the surrounding peaks and cols, leaving the itinerary to chance.

The sun came and went between the clouds as we walked up a grassy mountain side covered in bubbling streams and the occasional small lake. We were surrounded by beautiful mountains, some with quite large glaciers.

After some time we turned an ancient lump of moraine and saw the col we had been heading for. The landscape became more lunar and the view more spectacular as it opened up around us, although unfortunately the highest peaks were all under cloud and we only got a few glimpses of the mass of snow, rock and ice hiding underneath.

The wind was strong and quite cold at the col so we descended a few hundred metres to find a more sheltered spot for lunch. Soon after we were back at the car and on our way home again but knew that we had discovered another corner of the Alps we’d have to get to know better. We’d seen some fantastic-looking granite and limestone cliffs during the drive.

Alpine Guide Luca Machetto has just returned from a series of trips with clients to the Monte Rosa massif, where they were able to enjoy three beautiful sunsets from Europe’s highest mountain hut; Rifugio Margherita.

Thanks to abundant late season snow in June which has now consolidated the classic routes and ridges are all in good condition.

The lesser known but equally worthy parts of the massif, including Dent d’Herens and Tete de Valpelline, are also in excellent conditions.

We’ve been waiting all summer to do some routes on Monte Bianco’s amazing granite spires on the Glacier du Geant, known in Italian as ‘I Satelliti’. Unstable weather and conditions have hindered us until now but last week-end we decided to give it a go.

The first cable car from Courmayeur dropped us off at Rifugio Torino: 2400m of ascent in less than 20 minutes! I wondered about the validity of modern mountaineering. The cable car was built 50 years ago and before that any alpinist wishing to tackle the mountain would probably have taken days just to get this far.

We pitched our tent on Colle del Gigante just beneath Punta Helbronner, geared up and descended the glacier for about an hour before reaching the base of the rocks. A few tents had been pitched there right below the rocks, where a few people had spent the previous night.

Our initial objective was to climb Grand Capucin but there were already several parties on the route we wanted to do. The snow gully you have to ascend to reach the start of the climb was also in bad conditions and already throwing down mini snow-slides.

Late season snow and unstable weather have left deep, unconsolidated snow on the massif; just approaching across the relatively flat glacier was more time-consuming than it would normally be. We decided to change plans and go to the near-by Chandelle du Tacul, where the start of the climb is easier to access.

Pitch after pitch of beautiful granite cracks and slabs in traditional style bought us to the top of the aptly named Chandelle (Candel) by early afternoon. Fantastic! I hadn’t enjoyed any route as much for ages. The views across the glaciers and peaks of the massif were breath taking. The only thing that concerned me slightly was the constant sounds of avalanches and ice fall.

The descent, as for many climbs on I Satelliti, was via abseil. We were nearly back at our packs when one of our two twin ropes got caught whilst we were pulling it down. We tried flicking it then tugging but it wasn’t going to come.

As the day had progressed the wind had picked up and occasional clouds covered the sun as they swept past. What’s more the face we were on was about to go into shade; it was getting cold and we didn’t want to embark on another ascent of the climb to retrieve the rope if we could help it.

We left the jammed rope and prayed that we’d be able to manage the last two rappels (which would otherwise have been one) with the remaining rope. I held my breath as Manuel went down and on both occasions he just made it.

We put on our boots and gaiters before landing on the glacier below. A few minutes later as we were de-gearing and preparing for the glacier plod back to our tent an avalanche of snow and ice streamed down from the Clocher du Tacul, the rock pillar just to the left of the one we had climbed. We left as quickly as possible.

As we walked back I admired the views in the afternoon sun. So many peaks and rocks which had been standing there for so long, before man arrived and first ventured up onto the glaciers, now criss-crossed with tracks made by climbers and alpinists from all over the world.

We had enjoyed the day and the climb is superb but we decided to descend back to Courmayeur the following morning and wait for more stable conditions before going back for more.

This is one of Gran Paradiso’s best known peaks amongst rock climbers. You can see it from the valley floor; a vertical, golden slab of granite perched on the eastern side of Piantonetto valley. It is home to a series of classic climbs, all trad style, although many have some pitons in place from the first ascents in the 1950’s.

The mountain is 3360m high but the face itself is only 250m….the approach is long. Usually this is achieved in 2hrs30mins from Rifugio Pontese but since we had to be back home by 6 o’clock the day of the climb we chose an alternative approach.

The night before we marched for two hours up and across the mountain-side with tent, food and climbing gear in our packs. When we reached the base of the boulder and scree slope under the wall we pitched our tent and prepared our gear for an early start the next day.

We got there just in time to see two hikers descending from a near-by col to the refuge. Soon after the last rays of sun left the mountains on the other side of the valley but it was still light…I thought how fantastic these long summer days are.

The alarm went off at 6am. The sky was clear, it was freezing and covered in frost outside the tent so we quickly got up and headed towards the sun, which had just dawned at the top of our east-facing rock face.

Boulders, steep scree and a final section of scrambling lead to the base of the routes. We were there to do Conto Fino a Zero, a popular classic near the right side of the wall. Apart from an exposed and slabby first pitch the rest is all about jamming up cracks of varying widths…Manuel led the hardest pitch of 6b+; a very thin finger crack where you have to choose whether to use the larger slots to protect yourself or as holds!

Around midday we reached the top just as some clouds had started to form. The wind had also picked up and the temperature dropped. The descent for all the climbs on the face is preferably down the bolted abseils on the climb we had done, so we gratefully threw down the ropes and descended in four rappels.

We had to concentrate as we down-scarmbled the initial section back to terra ferma but the boulders and scree below made for a relatively rapid descent back to our tent. The rest of the valley was still basking in the midday sun.

The descent back to the car with our heavy packs was long and my knees didn’t thank me. When we got down I looked back up at our peak and found it hard to believe we had done all that in less than a day.

Becco della Tribolazione had inspired me several autumns ago from the valley floor whilst climbing in Valle dell’Orco. I was informed that it would have to wait until the summer since late in the season it gets too cold and then snow covers its base until late spring.

Finally I had been up there to climb it…what a day!

Text and photos by Robert Chillcott

On Saturday 23rd June 2007 a small group of eight people – two men and six women – arrived late at Turin Airport on a Ryanair flight from London Stansted. The group had been brought together by either teaching or trying to learn the Italian language and by a liking for Walking. We were embarking on an Alpine Logistics walking holiday and we were transported from Turin to Courmayeur in less than two hours in a very comfortable minibus. The accommodation in Courmayeur was at the Agriturismo Le Reve which affords a splendid view of the mountains, in particular Monte Bianco.

All members of the party had some experience of Walking but were not necessarily terribly fit and I was the youngest at 56. There was considerable speculation as to how we would manage with the hazards of altitude, rain, carrying a rucksack, blisters and hard physical demands on our bodies.

In addition to booking the (half board) accommodation and providing the minibus for the week, Alpine Logistics provided packed lunches and a mountain guide, Giovanna. Giovanna drove the minibus, and then acted as a sheep dog, making sure we stayed clear of any danger while staying on route and on target to achieve our destination.

On Sunday we set off early to the nearby Val Veny. The walk started on a small road. It was uphill and hot. This was tough. I wasn’t used to ascending like this. Before too long Giovanna offered us the opportunity of a detour from our main route. We didn’t take much persuading and soon we were clambering over rocks (much more fun!) to get to Lago del Miage. There we saw our first Marmots and the lake is a wow: water surrounded by large scree-type rocks. It is part of the Miage glacier and rocks were constantly tumbling into the lake, making large splashes.

Back on the main route we could see the lunch destination – refuge Elisabetta at 2197m – and the reasonably flat track seemed easy going. However the sting in the tail became apparent as we neared Elisabetta: we needed to climb many steep metres to get there.

With huge effort and much perspiration, spurred on by the thought of a hot lunch, I made it. I quickly ordered Polenta with stewed meat and a beer which went down very well. However most of the party ate their packed lunches and just ordered a drink or two.

After lunch the group divided into two with some enthusiastic to put in a few more miles up the valley with Giovanna. However I stayed, first amongst the amazing mountain flowers and then I wandered over to a large patch of snow to take a few pictures. The descent was going to be a piece of cake: back the way we came, such an easy route. However not only did it seem twice as long as the ascent but the leg muscles didn’t like it one bit.

Eventually we all made it OK and the minibus stopped at a Supermercato on the way back to buy wine which we consumed in some spirit of achievement and contentment before dinner.

The weather forecast being decidedly iffy and with a lot of rain on Sunday night, the planned itinerary was changed to give Monday as the ‘rest’ day. Aosta was the recommended destination and we went by (cheap) public bus. Aosta has many major tourist sights but fortunately we encountered few other tourists. The main monuments of the city include:

• The Arch of Augustus, erected in 35 BC to celebrate the victory of the Roman troops led by consul Varro Murene over the local Salassi.
• The Porta Praetoria (1st century AD), once the eastern gate to the city, which has preserved its original forms apart from the marble covering. It is formed by two series of arches enclosing a small square.
• The Roman theatre, of which the southern façade remains today, 22 m tall. The structure, dating from the late reign of Augustus occupied an area of 81 x 64 m: it could contain up to 4,000 spectators. Nearby was the amphitheatre, built under Claudius.
• The Cathedral of Aosta, built in the 4th century and replaced in the 11th century by a new edifice dedicate to the Madonna. It is annexed to the Roman Forum.
• The Romanesque-Gothic Sant’Orso (Saint-Ours). Its most evocative feature is the ancient cloister, which can be entered through a hall on the left of the façade. It is dedicated to Ursus of Aosta.

It was hot and humid and we did well to find a restaurant with a cool garden for a relaxed lunch. I then found a shoe shop and bought a pair of Italian shoes made of thin leather. We then returned to Courmayeur by bus.

The weather was still cloudy over the northern Alps so on Tuesday we set off for our furthest and furthest south destination – the Mont Avic National Park. On arrival at the small hamlet where the minibus parked, Giovanna handed out walking poles to those that didn’t have their own. This was a little ominous and I had never used poles before.

Right at the start there was a signpost to our destination – the refuge Barbustel – but it did say that it would take 3 hours 50 minutes. This was daunting and even more daunting was the fact that the path was, in fact, very steeply uphill almost all the way.

The path was a lovely route and the scenery kept changing: Sometimes through the trees, sometimes by a lake and often just up rocks, although the path was clearly marked. Giovanna warned that we would have to turn round at 2.30 wherever we were. However we rose to the challenge and arrived at 1.50.

I ordered several fruit juices from the bar and bought some chocolate. Just near the refuge was quite a large lake surrounded by a mixture of rocks and pines.

We descended by a different route which provided yet further variety of path: To begin with it was quite exciting with sheer drops a foot off the path, then lower down it became like a meadow with lots of flowers and then a wetland area. My knees hurt at the end of the walk (strangely the only day that they did). It was a long and tough walk but again it was thrilling to have done it.

On Wednesday the weather forecast was that Alpine areas might be cloudy so we went to the Gran Paradiso National Park, the first area of Italy to be so designated.

It was a little cold at first but soon warmed up. The first stage (up of course) was through a pine forest. It then became much more open and we passed what was once – a hundred years or so ago – the King of Italy’s hunting lodge. The final stage was on exposed mountain and it was in fact very cold. I had not taken enough clothes in my rucksack but Diane had brought extra, thankfully.

This was the only walk without a refuge stop for lunch. Where we ended the outward part of the walk it was snowing a little and there was a small lake. Anxious to get warm, I ran down where I could which was probably not too wise. The lunch spot was by a deserted farm building where there was shelter from the wind and it was sunny too.

We descended the way we had come and stopped when we saw a small deer and then more marmots. Some of the women took their time coming down as they took photos of the mountain flowers. My brother, Richard, took it into his head not only to go first but to take a very unlikely path which took him to the wrong village.

Giovanna was concerned but I can’t say that I was. Richard just had to walk (run?) back along the road to the minibus. I was hobbling for the last hour or so (because of the running?) as my right leg hurt, although only when descending steeply. Lacking Richard gave us the opportunity to have a quick coffee (and an ice-cream in my case) while we waited for him. So we had survived another day!

On Thursday the weather had cleared and we set off past the lovely Alpine village of La Thuile to La Joux, not far from the French border. Although the signpost at the start suggested that the refuge was less than 3 hours away, this was to prove the toughest walk of the week.

The walk was idyllic to begin with as we kept close to a mountain river as we ascended and saw three great waterfalls in amongst the woods. The path then became rocky and steep. After a while (a long while!) we reached a flatter area where there was a lake set amongst a lot of grass-like greenery. A lone fisherman was trying his luck.

The final part of the ascent to the refuge Deffeyes (2494m) was steep and long but the view we got on arrival was worth it as we looked over the Ruitor glacier. I then very much enjoyed hot pasta bolognaise with a beer. Again, the rest of the group just tucked into the packed lunch.

The feature of the descent was being met by several Billy goats gruff, complete with horns, who seemed neither friendly nor hostile. Strangely they all seemed to be different breeds and colors. I was so pleased to be down that I galloped the last part using my walking poles for maximum acceleration. We had ascended nearly 1000 metres and made it back down!

 The weather was great again on Friday and we drove to near the end of Val Ferret. After a little road walking we set off on a path as steep as any we had seen all week. At one point the path crossed some snow but the regular route had collapsed so we had an exciting crossing where sure footedness was mandatory and the poles were useful, as was Giovanna’s hand!

The refuge Elena is opposite the Pré du Bar glacier and we reached this refuge mid morning. Our party divided into two and I stayed behind for a cappuccino with Ann. We then thought we would go for a little saunter and went for a short walk on an EE (narrow) path up to a patch of snow which crossed the path. The refuge lunch was an excellent regional cabbage and bread soup. After this we thought that the main party would not be back for quite a while so we set off slowly towards the glacier.

There was no path but it was actually the easiest walking of the week as the gradient was modest. Veronica and I made it to a point beyond which I thought it best not to go, as the glacier cliff loomed. However we stood next to the lower part of the glacier which was full of snow, ice, rocks and boulders. Next thing we knew, Giovanna was near, calling us back – she was concerned to keep us out of any danger. Veronica and I were thrilled to have visited the glacier and we made the others jealous!

On Saturday the flight home was late and the day started with a leisurely trip to Courmayeur which included some gelato tasting. Then Roni, Carole and I ascended in the cable cars to Punta Helbronner (3470m) on Monte Bianco where it was zero degrees centigrade in the shade but very hot in the sun. Beautiful views in every direction called for lots of photos.

 Descending to La Palud we met the others in a very good restaurant and enjoyed a good lunch. In the afternoon the minibus took us to Fenis castle which is in an excellent state of repair and attractive visually. The castle guide spoke very fast and tested understanding to the limit. After a final gelato it was time to return to Turin and home.

Of course we saw fantastic scenery in the week and it was fascinating to see all the flowers and a bonus to see some mountain animals. For me though the top feeling was that of amazement that I had actually walked virtually the entire planned itinerary despite the lack of training beforehand. My appetite has certainly been wetted for more and I even asked what the next level up would be (Vie Ferrate I believe)!

There are numerous options for rock-climbing in Val Ferret. Our objective was Parete dei Titani: a 400m-high face which sits majestically above the glacial moraine that leads to Rifugio Dalmazzi and an array of other splendid climbs in the Triolet basin.

Julia and I had both climbed the face before and the only route we hadn’t done was that furthest to the left. The first pitch was slightly overhung, physical and a nice contrast to the following several hundred metres of fantastic granite slabs.

Five pitches up the wall a ledge marks the half way point. Here we ate our jam sandwiches and left behind the small rucksack we had taken with us, which we’d pick up on our descent. The final four pitches offered rewarding and varied climbing up corners, cracks and juggy overhangs.

After a few well-equipped abseil descents we were back in the horizontal world and glad to be sheltered from the icy wind which, despite the beautiful sunny day, had persisted throughout the climb.

The descent back to the valley floor was relaxing. This time of year is spring at higher elevations and the mountains are covered in flowers and long, bright green grass. We ended the day in a good Pizzeria at La Palud before heading back home.

Our objective was Becco di Valsoera, a 600m-high granite face in the heart of Gran Paradiso National Park. Rifugio Pontese is just a 45minute walk from the car at the head of a long, wild valley.

The apex of climbing and the meaning of summer for me is having the conditions to climb high up on a rock-face lost in the depths of some mountain range. The week-end promised perfect conditions; little wind, high temperatures and not a cloud in the sky. Not a minute to loose!

Friday evening we hoisted our packs up and onto our backs and in no time we were at the refuge. Inside it was already buzzing with other climbers and walkers all discussing their plans for the next day. The refuge owner came around asking each of us what time we wanted breakfast.

The route we wanted to do, Perego-Mellano, is on a west-facing pillar near the head of Piantonetto Valley. Although the climb is quite long it isn’t difficult so it’s no use getting up before dawn only to freeze in the shade until the sun comes round at noon, so the alarm was set for 6 o’clock.

What we hadn’t bargained on however was that on the other side of the valley is another well-known rock face which faces east and has a very long approach: it requires an early start to avoid going into shade. That night we shared our dorm room with a group of aspirant guides who were all heading to this east facing wall. At four o’clock an alarm went off and so it was that an hour later people were still bustling about getting ready and we couldn’t get back to sleep. We decided we may as well get up and have a leisurely breakfast.

Outside it was cold, the tops of the mountains were just catching the first rays of sunlight but the bottom of the valley was still in the shade and a light breeze was blowing. After two hours, having walked along the valley and up a steep scree slope, we were at the base of the climb.

A couple of other parties had left before us and were just starting up the first pitches so we took our time getting ready. I knew it’d be several hours before the sun would come round so I put on all the layers I had. We geared up with friends, nuts and quick-draws. After a winter of sports climbing on limestone we were no longer used to having all this metal hanging around our waists.

Cracks, corners, flakes and small overhangs led the way up. The going was slow because of the number of people on the climb. The summer so far this year has been unusually bad so with such a good forecast everyone had flocked to the mountains; there were people from all over Italy sharing the route with us.

Finally the sun lit the rock with its golden glow, a long awaited moment! I raised my head skywards to soak in some warmth.

My feet defrosted and I was much more relaxed. The last few pitches were old-style climbing; I could imagine climbers from the 1950s with their boots and hemp ropes back and footing their way up some of these off-widths and chimneys…a style that a lot of modern climbers, myself included, are not very used to and find decidedly awkward!

It was a glorious day. The sky was perfectly blue and we had a fantastic view across the whole of the eastern Alps: rock faces and snowy peaks as far as the eye can see. We topped out at roughly 3200m and began a series of abseils down an adjacent more modern, bolted line to the right of the climb we had done. The belays took some searching for and a couple of times my heart sank as I thought the ropes had got caught but luck was on our side and with a bit of tugging they came down.

As ever it was a relief to get down, take off my harness and put on some more comfortable shoes. We carefully descended back down the scree slope, interrupted half way by a group of impressive male ibex rutting. They were apparently so caught up in their fights that we went un-noticed: it was an amazing sight.

Back in the hut red cheeks and noses, wild hair and big smiles summed up that a successful day had been had by all. Everyone shared their stories over a delicious meal of risotto, chicken, salad and cake before turning in for bed.

Did we have the energy to go up again tomorrow for another route? We set the alarm for 5 o’clock. However that night I lay in bed listening to the wind howling outside and the windows rattling; the weather had turned and we’d be in no hurry the next day.

I had that glowing sensation of being warm and cosy in bed whilst nature was letting rip outside…the day’s efforts soon sent me into a deep sleep.

We woke up to the magnificent site of the Grandes Jorasses and Monte Bianco basking in the sun above Val Ferret. What a glorious day.

We were both tired from the previous day’s efforts on Gran Paradiso, so we chose a short walk in the near-by Val Veny, which runs beneath the imposing south west side of the Monte Bianco Massif.

This part of the mountain is guarded by steep seraced glaciers ending abruptly above vertical drops in the underlying granite bedrock. It is home to some of the massif’s most serious alpine undertakings: Pilone Centrale, Integrale del Peuterey, Divine Providence and many more. These various ridges, peaks and faces came into sight as we walked west towards Col de la Seinge and the French border.

At the beautiful turquoise waters of Lake Combal we deviated south and followed the Tour du Mont Blanc up a side valley for a short stretch, passing a couple of people with big packs and a slow plodding pace. I looked down the valley towards Val Ferret and the Swiss border and thought how exciting it must be for them to known they’re going to pass through all these beautiful areas under their own steam.

We soon left the TMB, crossed a small stream and began a steep climb up the side of Mont Fortin. Many zigzags and a few snow patches later we reached the top. This mountain gives superb views onto the Monte Bianco massif, into France to the west and Switzerland to the east. Gran Paradiso, the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa were all visible to the south. From the summit it feels like you could reach out and touch the mountains on a clear day like today.

Exhilarated we descended back down through the green, flower-strewn meadows in the valley. What a contrast to the spectacular, barren world of rock and ice sitting above us.

Monte Bianco is famous because it’s western Europe’s highest mountain, but it’s also the birth place of alpinism and a spectacular fortress of snow fields, glaciers and jagged rock formations that have withstood hundreds of thousands of years of battering by the sun, wind, rain, snow, glaciations, global warming…it really does give a great sense of power and magnificence. There is a life time’s worth of climbing to do here: no climber can ignore the call of Monte Bianco’s red granite spires and exposed ridges. I imagined what it must be like to be perched up there somewhere looking down at these green valleys with running water and teaming with life. Lonely and vulnerable to the elements but very privileged.