Alpine Logistics

Lemons, olives, strong wine, mafia….. and lots of limestone. The island at the tip of the boot of Italy, basking in the sun at the southernmost edge of the Mediterranean, isn’t the first place that comes to mind when planning the next climbing trip.

Last minute flights and ferry crossings were too expensive, five of us plus gear crammed into an Opel Astra and set off on the 1600km journey to Palermo from the western Italian Alps. Whilst the rest of the world was still in a post-Christmas coma, we drove for 18 hours past Florence, Rome, Naples and through the endless expanse of Calabria. Without big cities or important landmarks, a territory no matter how big somehow shrinks in the imagination of those who come from outside. Nonetheless throughout the night clusters of lights and illuminated church spires signalled the presence of life in amongst the blackness.

Craning our necks out of the car windows, the excitement grew as the Northern Sicilian coastline unfolded in front of us. Hillside crags submerged amongst thorny vegetation or 400m high walls overlooking the sea: is it possible there are no routes in most of these places? The guide book ‘Di Roccia Di Sole’ lists only a handful. Down jackets and woolly hats abandoned in the car, we embraced the heat that engulfed us as we approached Bauso Rosso for the first day’s cragging. Climbing somewhere new is always stimulating, but this place is something special: a 500m-long band of overhung, red limestone dripping from top to bottom with the most amazing tufas I’ve ever seen. All the routes are 20-30m long and newly bolted, so there’s not yet a sign of polish. Like kids in a playground we peeled off the layers and put on our dancing shoes; we weren’t disappointed.

A week isn’t long to get to know an island as big as Sicily, so we concentrated our efforts between Palermo and Trappani. Each time we were struck by the quality of the rock, the unique style of climbing and the beauty and contrasts to be found in each place and in each day. On some occasions we woke to a moody sky and strong, warm winds. Various layers of clouds raced by as shafts of sunlight threw patches of gold across the landscape. Nearby, dark clouds signalled a passing storm of heavy rain or even snow. Other days it felt like something out of an African Desert.

We saw green countryside rich in flowers and lawns of clover; the smell of spring confusing my inner clock and triggering the excitement and anticipation that time of year always wakes in me.

On the advice of some locals, we occasionally ventured into the chaos of beeping cars, exuberant people and homeless cats and dogs that coexist in the streets of Palermo. The native climbers are few but active and friendly. They told us of their plans for new routes, asked what we thought of a recently bolted line we had climbed and confirmation of the grade. They’re not jealous of their heritage but full of enthusiasm and keen to promote it to anyone who shares their passion. They certainly succeeded with us and I think we all left knowing a seed had been sown; not a place to tick off the list but one to come back to, discover and savour bit by bit. The island has huge potential.